Purdey mein rehne do, Purdah na uthao… (Let me remain behind the veil)
Purdah jo uth gaya tho raaz khul jayega… (If the veil is lifted, the secret will be revealed)
…go the riffs of a popular Bollywood song.
Since time immemorial the burqa has been used by Muslim women around the world. It has been an integral part of their dress and over a period of time has evolved to become more than just a piece of black cloth.
With the fashion industry revolution, burqas have become designer apparel. An intricately handcrafted burqa sells for at least US $400 in markets around the world.
The price of a burqa gives the impression that the people making these are well compensated. Nothing could be further from the truth. The women and men actually working on the burqa barely make ends meet each month. The income of a burqa making craftsman is just Rs.5000 – Rs.8000 (~US$140) a month on average.
Shamina Banu: Skilled entrepreneur
Shamina Banu, an Ujjivan customer, lives in a 10’ x 8’ room in Bharuch, Gujarat. The small room is shared with her husband Mohammad Faruk and her three children, 6 year old Faisal, 4 year old Owasis and 10 month old Samrin. The room functions as a kitchen during lunch and dinner, a bedroom at night and for 15 hours every day it is the workshop where burqas, saris, lehengas and other dress material are made.
Shamina’s father was a textile factory worker and her mother used to put embroidery designs on saris. She taught Shamina basic thread work when she was barely 10 years old. When Shamina turned 18, she was married off to Mohammad Faruk. This is a common household story here in Furza locality (in Bharuch), which has a dense Muslim population, where the women are not allowed to leave home for work.
Her brother has a tailoring shop in another part of town. Shamina regrets that her brother had the opportunity to learn the trade as an apprentice of a specialist tailor in a textile factory while she was only able to learn basic handwork at home from her mother.
Faruk and Shamina have been married for 9 years. While Faruk had picked up burqa handwork as a part of the family business, Shamina started to work on burqas only after her marriage. The main difference between working on saris and in burqas is in the intricacy of handwork, since the piece of cloth for burqas is smaller in size.
Garments handwork industry
The garment handwork industry has grown primarily due to the fact that large number of Muslim women could stay at home and yet contribute to the family income. In this informal system, any woman can act as a contractor or sub-contractor based on the orders she procures, sub-contracting it to other women in the locality.
Shamina learned intricate handwork from Faruk in the first year of marriage. In the early years she hardly managed to finish 1-2 burqas in a day but over time, she became an expert at it. However, Shamina says that household work needs to be taken care of on priority and only then can she take up the burqa work. She can finish 5 to 7 burqas on a good day. Faruk, her husband, being the more experienced and with quick hands, can finish up to 10 burqas a day. The process of transforming a plain piece of cloth into a beautifully designed burqa takes about 2 hours of work for a practiced hand.
Faruk procures work orders and material from wholesalers in Surat where he travels once or twice a week. The wholesaler usually gives 100 pieces of burqa cloth which need to be completed in a week. The design is pre-printed on the cloth and a photo of the finished design is provided to help serve as a reference for the handwork.
Rate per burqa: Rs.200 – Rs.500 (depending on the intricacies of the handwork)
Net margin per burqa: Rs.50 – Rs.100 (after deduction of raw material costs)
Hard economic eco-system
The wholesaler does not pay for the finished products immediately. The craftsmen are usually given a “kharcha” or a lump sum amount of Rs.2000 – Rs.3000 depending on the volume of work. Every shipment has a payment slip in duplicate. The wholesaler retains one copy and gives the other to the craftsman. Every year, before the holy month of Ramzan, the dues are calculated and a bulk amount given to the craftsmen. At no time are the entire dues paid to the craftsman! This is to lock-in the craftsmen to the wholesaler and to prevent him/her from starting up an end-to-end business on his/her own. Sometimes the payment is also made in kind wherein the wholesaler pays for the craftsman and his/her family members’ Haj trip by arranging for visas, passport and lodging facilities at Mecca and Madina.
Unique trade
In addition to the work orders from the wholesalers, Shamina and Faruk also try to add to their household income by producing burqas for international markets. During Ramzan, Shamina has many relatives visiting from Pakistan, Middle East and UAE. The relatives take these burqas back with them when returning and sell the products in those countries. They remit the money through a network of people who visit India and the locality.
The loans of Rs.10000 – Rs.15000 that Shamina takes from Ujjivan are utilized to buy decorative raw material such as spools of coloured thread, coloured beads of different sizes, and semi-precious stones. Ujjivan’s loans also help Shamina to buy burqa raw material cloth in bulk directly from a wholesaler.
She earns as much as Rs.1000 for every burqa sold in these foreign countries. However, she has no idea of the actual selling price of her burqas internationally. If they manage to send across an average of 50 pieces, they are able to earn good capital to help continue their business for the rest of the year. Shamina has to ensure that people carry the garments by paying them their excess baggage charges in advance.
2011 was a good year when Shamina and her family earned around Rs.30000 for their burqas. They recruited 2 labourers from a neighbouring village of Bharuch, paying each Rs.500 per week as retainer and Rs.50 per piece.
Worldwide reach
The burqas from this small locality in Bharuch in Gujarat are sold across India and all over the globe – from Karachi and Peshawar to Canada and UAE. The wholesalers never disclose the price they are selling or exporting the goods at. When asked what prevents her and Faruk from directly selling their items in the market place, Shamina smiles and says, “No contacts sir. Big buyers want variety and we cannot afford to provide it with our limited resources.”
Undying aspirations
As she grows her business steadily, Shamina wants all her 3 children to complete their schooling before teaching them handwork. Over the next 2 years they want to move into a 2-room house where they can allow labourers to live and work full time at their home.
Shamina also wants to get into bridal work of saris and lehengas which pays more. One can get as much as Rs.20000 for 15 – 20 days of work. Indian made designer bridal wear have a huge demand in US and Canada and each piece is sold for over Rs.50000.